Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

!±8± Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

Which brand of memory card should I buy? Does it make a difference? How big of a card do I need? Is one large card better than multiple small cards? Does the speed rating of the card matter? This article was written to help answer these exact questions.

Cameras and lenses can be easily replaced, especially if they are insured. Those images from the three-week safari, your relatives wedding, or your summer long European tour, simply can't.

Memory Card Reliability

The first thing to look at is the memory card itself. Most entry level and amateur level cameras use SD (Secure Digital) memory cards. Most professional and prosumer cameras use CF (Compact Flash cards). In general, Compact Flash cards tend to cost more, but offer higher read/write speeds, larger capacities and be less prone to failure than the Secure Digital Cards. This article will focus on those two card types.

While there are many manufacturers of memory card out there, the top tier, and the choice of the vast majority of pros, are SanDisk and Lexar. These are also the only two brands than Nikon tests with and recommends.

SanDisk claims a MTBF (Mean Time Before Failure) of over 1,000,000 hours - that's almost 115 years before the average card fails. Their cards are rated for over 10,000 insertions. A sophisticated defect and error management system can rewrite data from a defective sector to a good sector on the fly. SanDisks built in Error Detection Code and Error Correction Code to try to recover corrupted data automatically.

The regular (blue) SanDisk CF card has an operating temperature range from 0°C to 70°C (32°F to 158°F). The Extreme III cards are rated with an operating range of -25°C to 85°C (-13°F to 185°F). They can withstand a shock of 2,000G (or about a 10 ft drop onto a concrete floor). Hard-drives can only withstand a 200-300G shock - a drop of less than 2 foot.

SanDisk quote less than 1 non-recoverable error in every 10^14 bits read (or one error for every 12.5 terabytes of data - or one out of every million 12.5Mb RAW files, or one out of every three million Fine JPEGs).

Overall the reliability from their Compact Flash cards is significantly better than even the best hard drives on the market today.

One important note: there are many fake SanDisk cards in the marketplace. Some of these are cheaper manufacturers cards with SanDisk stickers and packaging. Some are custom made with no quality control and put into SanDisk looking boxes. Our best advice, is to only buy from a reputable retailer like Amazon.com or BHPhotoVideo.com, and avoid buying memory cards that appear too cheap, are for sale on eBay, or some market stall while traveling etc - stick to reputable sources that are authorized dealers.

However, even with the best cards, errors do still occur. There are many, many millions of these cards in circulation today. Look at any DSLR internet forum, and you'll find reports of lost images. Most of these you'll note are either with cheaper cards, potentially fake SanDisk or Lexar cards, or caused by user error. If you remove the card from the camera before the camera has finished writing the data, you'll lose images that the camera hasn't completed writing. It's very easy to accidentally format a card, especially if you use multiple cards. There are reports of certain software applications importing the images from the card, then the user deleting the card, only to find that the application only imported the thumbnail JPEGs that were embedded into the RAW image files, not the actual RAW image files. In virtually all these cases, most of the images are recoverable using data recovery software.

Bottom line, trying to save on a memory card for a camera/lens system that costs hundred or thousands of dollars makes very little sense. If you stick with the top tier brands, memory cards are very, very reliable, and they are far from the weakest link in the typical users workflow.

Card Sizes: One Large Card vs. Multiple Small Cards

How much card space you need depends on what format you shoot (RAW files are significantly larger than JPEG's), and how many shots you are likely to take between getting to a computer to clear off and backup the cards. If I'm traveling, I've usually got a laptop with me so I can backup my cards every evening. Some days I may only take a dozen shots, but it's also not unknown for me to take several thousand shots in a day if I'm at an event with a lot of action.

On a Nikon D200 containing a blank 8Gb SanDisk card, the camera claims 480 shots are available for RAW shooting. This number is usually conservative, as the size of the RAW file varies. My Nikon D300 regularly gets around 700 shots on an 8Gb card using Lossless Compressed NEF files. If you switch the D200 to Fine JPEG, it shows 1,300 shots available. If you select RAW plus Fine JPEG, it shows 354 shots available. Your cameras manual will contain a table showing similar data for your particular model.

There are conflicting opinions as to if one large card is better, or if many smaller cards are. The argument for smaller cards is, that if your card fails or you drop your camera in the ocean, you lose less data. The argument for larger cards, is card failure is very rare, and largely recoverable. You also risk a much higher chance of dropping a card, getting it wet, sitting on it, losing it, accidentally erasing it, forgetting it or leaving it in your hotel room if you are managing multiple cards.

There are other things to consider also. Uploading to computer can take a long time - putting in one large card and leaving it to upload is a lot less work than swapping multiple smaller cards and uploading each one manually. A 4Gb size card is ideal if you back up to DVD - it's the largest card size that will completely fit onto a DVD, making the back up a simple drag and drop.

There is no right or wrong answer, we've standardized on 8Gb Compact Flash cards - mainly because they hold a decent number of shots and usually offer the best price per gigabyte. I'll carry up to ten of them with me when I'm traveling. As larger cards become more common and prices drop further, we'll go to larger sized cards. The most important thing is to make sure you have enough memory card space to last you until you can upload them to a computer - it's better to have more than you need than not enough.

Card Speed: How Fast Do I Need?

Memory cards come in a wide range of speeds, and the faster the card, the more expensive. How fast of a card you need depends on a number of items:

Is how long it takes for the images to upload to a computer important to you? If you are uploading via cable from your camera, your upload speed is limited by the camera. If you are using a CF of SD reader, you are limited by the speed of that. For the absolute fastest uploads, use a card that supports UDMA (like the SanDisk Extreme IV's, SanDisk Ducati's, and Lexar 300x) in a FireWire reader. For example, the SanDisk Ultra II 8Gb card claims a 15 Mb/second read speed, so that would take almost 9 minutes to upload on an optimally configured system. The 8Gb Ducati card claims a 45Mb/second speed, so would take less than three minutes to upload.Which camera do you use? The Nikon D200 does not support UDMA, so even though an Extreme IV is faster in it than an Extreme III, the card is much slower than it is in the D300 - the D300 can handle a much faster data transfer rate. How likely are you to fill the camera buffer? If you shoot landscape or take several minutes to compose each shot, then you don't need a fast card. If you are shooting non-stop action and taking sequence after sequence at 8fps, you'll need as fast a card as possible. Cameras like the D200 and D300 have a big enough on board buffer to store about 17 shots if you are shooting RAW. Once you've taken a picture, the camera writes it to the memory card and erases it from the buffer as soon as it can. Once the buffer is full, the camera won't let you take another picture until it's written an image to the memory card and made room in the buffer. If you are using an Ultra II card in a Nikon D300, this means you may only be able to take a shot every 2-3 seconds when the buffer is full. If you are using a Ducati card, you may still be able to manage a couple of frames a second. Then if you stop shooting, the Ultra II may take a minute or so to get the buffer cleared and all written to the card. The Ducati card will allow the camera to write the images to the card and clear the buffer in seconds.

If you take your time to compose each shot, and upload speed isn't important to you, then memory card speed isn't important. If you are shooting action or sports and use a rapid frame rate frequently, then you want the fastest card, and camera, that you can afford.

Data Recovery Whether you've accidentally removed your memory card while the camera was still writing, deleted or formatted the wrong card, or the card has developed an error, it's usually possible to retrieve some, if not all of the lost data.

The higher end cards from both SanDisk and Lexar come with their respective data recovery software packages on CD. SanDisk's is called RescuePro, and Lexar's is called Image Rescue. Both are reputed to be very effective. A third part solution called PhotoRescue is also widely used and reputedly better than both SanDisk's and Lexar's offerings, fortunately we've not had the need to find out.

In Summary

Your photos are infinitely more important than your camera gear. By selecting the right memory cards and taking a few simple precautions, you can potentially save yourself from losing irreplaceable photographs due to the unforeseen events that hit us all occasionally.


Choosing the Best Memory Card For Your Digital Camera

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Wednesday, January 4, 2012

Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

!±8± Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

When shopping for a Digital SLR Camera people often overlook or skimp on the camera's lenses. Camera Lenses serve as the digital SLR cameras "eye," the lens determines what and how your camera will see your subject and how well that view is transmitted to the camera's sensor chip for recording. The way I like to look at camera lenses is as painter's brushes, broad strokes, medium stokes, all purpose brushes, and small detail brushes. There is a lot to learn about digital slr camera lenses and this article will serve as a basic outline to understanding them. The following sections explain the basic types of digital SLR camera lenses, how they work, and how to select them.


Focal Length

On a digital SLR camera the focal length of the lenses measures the distance between the lens and the image sensor, measured in millimeters. Lenses can be classified into subgroups like prime, macro, wide angle, normal, telephoto, and zoom lenses. They are also rated in regards to f-stop or speed an example would be a F2.0 50mm lens or a 1.4F 80mm lens. We will explain this later in this article.

Prime Lenses:

Prime lenses are fixed focal length lenses like a 50mm 1.4f lens. To zoom with these types of lenses you need to use your feet and to get closer or farther away from the subject. Traditionally prime lenses are sharper and faster then zoom lenses. If you are on a budget you can pick up some amazing used older prime lenses off eBay or your local camera store.

Macro Lenses:

Macro Lenses are your detail brushes they enable you to get up close and personal with your subject. These types of lenses are used for extreme close ups on small objects like daisies, pennies, and food but not limited to these types of subjects. Examples of macro lenses are 50mm and 100mm macros. These lenses are also great for selective focus types of photos.

Wide-angle Lenses:

Wide-angle lenses are your broad stroke brushes; these types of lenses have short focal lengths. The short focal length has the visual effect of "pushing" the subject away from you and making it appear smaller. The beauty of wide-angle lenses is you can be relatively close to your subject and fit a broad stroke of the background into the scene.

One problem with wide-angle lenses is known as convergence, a distortion that makes vertical structures appear to lean toward the center of the frame. A way to check if the wide-angle lenses you are interested in has convergence is to take test pictures before buying the lens. With high quality wide angles lenses like Canon L series lenses address this convergence issue well. Examples of wide-angle lenses are 15MM, 17mm, 24mm and 28mm lenses.

Normal Lenses:

Normal Lenses try to mimic how the human eye sees and are some of the most versatile lenses you can use. These are my all purpose brushes, and are somewhere between a wide angle and a telephoto lenses. If you buy just one lens try and buy the fastest normal lenses you can like a 50mm 1.4f lenses. Some examples of normal lenses are 35mm; 50mm, 65mm and some consider a 80mm a normal lens.

Telephoto Lenses:

Lenses with long focal lengths 100mm and higher are called telephoto lenses. A long focal length seems to bring the subject closer to you and increases the subject's size in the frame. Telephoto lenses also give your subjects a graphic look and flatten out your subject. These lenses are my short stroke brushes.

Zoom Lenses:

Zoom lenses are special because they can be very versatile. These types of lenses vary in their focal lengths and come in many in wide-angle, telephoto, and wide-angle to telephoto. In my bag I carry a 17mm to 35mm my wide-angle broad brush, 24mm to 70mm my medium brush, and a 80mm to 200mm my short brush. With these three lenses I get a very board range of focal lengths for any situation. All of my zooms are at least f2.8 through out the lenses range, which means my f-stop can stay constant while I am zooming in and out. These types of lenses are very expensive but so get what you pay for. When shopping for a zoom lenses check out the f-stop range rating. An example is a 24mm to 300mm f3.5-f5.6 lenses meaning the lowest f-stop you can shoot is at the 24mm range of the lenses and when you zoom to 200mm the lowest you can go is f5.6. Zoom lenses can give you flexibility and versatility all in one lenses. When buying a zoom lens try and get one that is made of glass and is the fastest you can afford, you will not regret it.

Understanding what these different groups of lenses can do will help you make more informed decisions on what lenses to purchase and what to put in your camera bag.


Knowing Which Digital SLR Camera Lens is Right for You?

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